This Barcelona Hotel Is the Ultimate Extravagance, and It Doesn’t Disappoint

There’s something quite perverse about being a travel writer. Because you get to experience some of the most opulent travel offerings out there, you tend to think that you’re a little bit rich. But you’re not. Your day-to-day life is far from ritzy, and your finances are nowhere near what’s considered robust. Of course, reality should never deter you from acting like an affluent traveler when the occasion presents itself. That’s certainly what I did on my recent stay at El Palace Barcelona, a five-star hotel that, during its 100-plus years of existence, has welcomed the likes of Josephine Baker, Salvador Dalí, and Umberto Eco. And now, me.

Photo: Morgane Croissant

After seven days of Mediterranean sunshine and gourmet food aboard Holland America’s Zuiderdam, I wanted to end my lavish time abroad on a very high note — like the elaborate icing on an already beautiful, very sweet tiered cake. So, I disembarked the ship, hopped in a taxi, and made my way to Barcelona’s central Eixample District (a stone’s throw from the the famous Las Rambalas boulevard) to check in at the luxurious El Palace Barcelona.

Because I know when I’m required to dress up a little, that morning I’d slipped on my very best summer dress (now free of the pizza stains from a couple of days prior), selected my most elegant handbag, and wiped the greasy fingerprints from my $60 sunglasses.

While the El Palace’s Beaux-Arts facade is impressive, I’d readied myself for its grandeur and kept my cool when the taxi stopped by the entrance. My partner, not so much. He gave me a look that conveyed feelings of surprise, delight, and genuine fear. I ignored him, held my chin high like anyone born with a silver spoon in their mouth would, and acted like I belonged there. Fake it till you make it is the motto I live by.

When the porter rolled my very scuffed-up Roam suitcase inside, however, I came back down to earth a little. Thankfully, my partner’s elegant Pacific Sterling carry-on saved us from being exposed as the frauds we were. Phew.

If El Palace’s exterior of doesn’t make it clear enough, the lobby will: this is a very, very fancy place. Not Marriott Autograph Collection fancy but Ritz-Carlton fancy. Picture a giant, glittering chandelier; marble floors, walls, and columns; large curving staircases; enormous bouquets of fragrant flowers; and smiling, uniformed staff — the whole nine yards.

Thinking we were the real deal, the considerate personnel at reception immediately checked us in and sent us to the verdant rooftop terrace where we could wait until our room was ready. We were kindly provided with a voucher for a glass of cava each and some nibbles, both of which we enjoyed alongside panoramic views of the city. We could have stayed there all afternoon, taking advantage of the pool and enjoying the shade of the abundant and luscious plants, but our room became available in no time, and we were keen to see our swanky digs.

Photos: Morgane Croissant

Because my reservation said Classic Room, I was expecting the 409-square-foot accommodation advertised on the hotel’s website. While far from modest, at just over $1,000 per night, it’s the smallest and cheapest class of room the hotel has, and I was mentally prepared for it. But the generous people at El Palace had other plans. After picking us up from the rooftop terrace, the concierge led us to the César Ritz Suite on the third floor. We’d been upgraded, big time. That I was not prepared for.

El Palace comprises 120 rooms and suites, and the César Ritz Suite is one of the most palatial. The suite, with its 1,600-plus square feet of space, pays homage to the Swiss hotelier and founder of the hotel who passed away in 1918, one year before it opened. César Ritz’s gold-framed portrait hangs in the suite’s sitting room. Because, yes, a suite this size has a sitting room, as well as a dining room, a bedroom, a powder room, a bathroom complete with a mosaiced Roman bath, a foyer, and a large corridor that serves as an immense walking wardrobe. It’s so big, in fact, that I could not find my way to the restroom when I woke up in the middle of the night.

Photos: Morgane Croissant

But size is only a small part of what made this particular suite extraordinary. What stopped me in my tracks and made my eyes grow wide were the beautifully crafted glass-and-gold chandeliers, the Louis XVI-style furniture, the objets d’art (small decorative items), and the TVs cleverly disguised as antique mirrors. Never in my life had I seen such sumptuous decor, except maybe on a visit to Versailles, but I wasn’t able to touch the goods and sleep there, so it doesn’t count.

The César Ritz Suite also has three immense windows, all of which provide views on the Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, the longest street in Catalonia (the northeast Spanish region of which Barcelona is the capital) and the city’s thoroughfare. The small wrought-iron balconies covered in blooming red geraniums are the perfect spot to people-watch and show the world how vastly richer you are than everyone else.

If the César Ritz Suite isn’t your speed, there are a few more special suites to choose from, all singularly decorated to match the personality of the visiting or local artist they were named after. My personal favorite is the Josephine Baker Suite with its joyful floral decor, but the Salvador Dalí Suite with its ostentatious four-poster bed is a close second. Just be aware that it’ll cost you over $4,000 per night, no matter which one you book. Will they soon name a suite after me? Time will tell, but my confidence is at an all-time high.

Photos: Morgane Croissant

There are six food and beverage venues at El Palace. Months earlier, when I was planning this trip, I managed to book the only one that was unsuitable for me: Amar. The gastronomic seafood restaurant not only resembles the inside of a gorgeous, velvety jewellery box, but it’s also praised for its refined food and excellent service. Sadly, because I’m a hardcore vegetarian, I was not able to indulge. That said, I took a peek inside, and it did very much look the part.

What I was able to test out, however, besides the lovely rooftop garden, is The Hall. Arguably the most beautiful room in the entire hotel, it’s where guests can enjoy afternoon tea, drinks, and a casual meal. Because it’s right off the lobby, some people walk from the street and ask reception if they can snap a picture — it’s that glitzy and ornate. So much so, in fact, that my partner and I assumed that we had to dress up to the nines for dinner. In reality, we could easily have shown up in much more laid-back outfits — the vibe and the food are informal. I had an avocado panini and delicious patatas fritas (in Spain, typically thick-cut french fries) in my black velvet dress and felt a little silly.

El Jardín, tucked away just off The Hall is where guests can enjoy a buffet breakfast with a huge variety of items to suit every taste. The space is very much like a glass conservatory, with many plants, wrought-iron furniture, and even a central fountain. Unfortunately, because I had to catch a very early flight, I was not able to experience breakfast at El Jardín. However, the staff thoughtfully prepared my partner and me a generous to-go breakfast package that consisted of juice, water, fruit, sweet treats, and savory sandwiches.

As a non-drinker and non-smoker, I missed out on the hotel’s underground speakeasy and cigar room, both of which look plush and cozy with big leather armchairs, a fireplace, low lighting, and Persian rugs galore. The speakeasy doubles as an intimate jazz club, and if you can time your stay with a performance, it’s bound to be very special.

Photos: El Palace Barcelona

My short stay didn’t allow me to take advantage of the hotel’s Mayan Luxury Spa, but I very much wish it did. I’m a sucker for any sort of body or facial treatment and would have loved to experience the spa’s tempting offerings. I could have easily done with a Caribbean Seashell Massage, a Chocolate Extasis Ritual, a Mayan Holistic Massage, or a Wine Therapy Cure — even though I have no idea what those are exactly. Even a quick session in the spa’s pre-Hispanic sauna (“built according to the traditions of Mayan culture,” as the brochure says) would have made my day.

Photo: Morgane Croissant

On top of it all — the beautiful decor, the great service, the abundant food and beverage options, and the Mayan Spa — El Palace is also perfectly located for you to see the city’s main sights on foot.

The Plaça de Catalunya (a large, bustling plaza) is eight minutes away, and Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf (an architectural memorial arch) is a 15-minute walk from the entrance to the hotel. It’ll only take you 20 minutes to reach the famous Gothic Quarter, with its narrow alleys full of great little independent shops, its amazing cathedral, and the Mercat de la Boqueria (the most beautiful covered market I’ve had the privilege to visit).

My partner and I had been to Barcelona twice before this particular visit, and thanks to the hotel’s location, we managed to see some of the spots we’d missed before. All in the space of a couple of hours and without having to ride the metro or hire an Uber.

If you’re a little more ambitious, you can walk to La Sagrada Família from the hotel in 30 minutes, but it’ll take you nearly an hour to get to Park Güell. And if it’s more of Gaudi’s creations you’re after, you can easily reach Casa Batlló (10 minutes) and Casa Mila (15 minutes) from El Palace.

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