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The many joys of Spain’s fruity garnacha grape
The best of the country’s new-wave wines show the old-world charms of its most famous grape to great effectAlfredo Maestro El Marciano Garnacha, Castilla y León, Spain 2022 (from £23.35, aduv.co.uk; buonvino.co.uk) Over the past couple of decades, few would dispute that Spain has been one of the two or three most exciting wine countries in the world. From Galicia in the far northwest to Jumilla in the southeast, a wine culture that had for much of the 20th century tended to the suffocatingly stuffy and traditional (with a surfeit of dusty wines to match), and then, in the 1990s and early 2000s, overcompensated with wines that were too-often flashy, overblown and lacking in local character, has been reinvigorated by a bunch of curious and sensitive winemakers rediscovering old vines and local grapes to make wines full of distinctive personality. It’s a shift in approach and style that can be summed up in microcosm by the return to prominence of the widely planted but hitherto rather underrated red grape variety, garnacha, in wines of fragrant, joyously juicy expressiveness such as El Marciano.Joan D’Anguera Altaroses, Montsant, Spain 2021 (£26.45, parched.wine; sipwines.shop) Like many of the best new-wave Spanish garnachas, El Marciano comes from old vines (70 years old in this case) growing in remote high-altitude sites (El Marciano comes from a site in Avila province at some 1,000m above sea level) on granite soils in the Sierra de Gredos mountain range west of Madrid. Gredos garnachas from producers such as Daniel Ramos, Daniel Landi, and Bodegas Marañones, tend to have a slinky feel, pale colour, red-fruited charm and aromatic finesse that invites comparisons with pinot noir from Burgundy – albeit with southern scents of wild herbs, fennel and subtle warm earthiness. There is a similar sense of roeship and cherry fruit and levity of feel mixed with Mediterranean wild herbiness in the wines made at the biodynamic Joan D’Anguera winery in another Garnacha hotspot: Catalonia’s Montsant, not least in their exquisite single-vineyard wine, Altaroses. Continue reading...
The best of the country’s new-wave wines show the old-world charms of its most famous grape to great effect
Alfredo Maestro El Marciano Garnacha, Castilla y León, Spain 2022 (from £23.35, aduv.co.uk; buonvino.co.uk) Over the past couple of decades, few would dispute that Spain has been one of the two or three most exciting wine countries in the world. From Galicia in the far northwest to Jumilla in the southeast, a wine culture that had for much of the 20th century tended to the suffocatingly stuffy and traditional (with a surfeit of dusty wines to match), and then, in the 1990s and early 2000s, overcompensated with wines that were too-often flashy, overblown and lacking in local character, has been reinvigorated by a bunch of curious and sensitive winemakers rediscovering old vines and local grapes to make wines full of distinctive personality. It’s a shift in approach and style that can be summed up in microcosm by the return to prominence of the widely planted but hitherto rather underrated red grape variety, garnacha, in wines of fragrant, joyously juicy expressiveness such as El Marciano.
Joan D’Anguera Altaroses, Montsant, Spain 2021 (£26.45, parched.wine; sipwines.shop) Like many of the best new-wave Spanish garnachas, El Marciano comes from old vines (70 years old in this case) growing in remote high-altitude sites (El Marciano comes from a site in Avila province at some 1,000m above sea level) on granite soils in the Sierra de Gredos mountain range west of Madrid. Gredos garnachas from producers such as Daniel Ramos, Daniel Landi, and Bodegas Marañones, tend to have a slinky feel, pale colour, red-fruited charm and aromatic finesse that invites comparisons with pinot noir from Burgundy – albeit with southern scents of wild herbs, fennel and subtle warm earthiness. There is a similar sense of roeship and cherry fruit and levity of feel mixed with Mediterranean wild herbiness in the wines made at the biodynamic Joan D’Anguera winery in another Garnacha hotspot: Catalonia’s Montsant, not least in their exquisite single-vineyard wine, Altaroses. Continue reading...
