From Slopes to ‘Suviche,’ Viceroy Snowmass Redefines the Luxe Ski Travel Experience
Viceroy Snowmass reinvented itself, and the result is even more stunning than could have been imagined.
I was at the top of the High Alpine lift at Snowmass, a thick February snowfall blanketing the terrain around me, when I decided to take a “mindfulness moment.” As corny as that sounds, pausing momentarily to clear my head is a task I’ve embraced as a busy professional who’s frequently on the road, not to mention the father of a rambunctious young girl who always has me on my toes – especially when we travel together. In this particular instance, waiting for my snowboarding buddy to strap into his bindings, it wasn’t stress or anxiety that drove me to stop, but rather pride. Here I was, atop one of my favorite ski resorts, my three-year-old in a ski lesson some 1,500 vertical feet below me, and if it weren’t for the near-blizzard I’ve have been able to see the Viceroy Hotel, our accommodations for the night, and its new Cirque Tower standing against the backdrop of the White River National Forest behind it. When the opportunity came to report on Viceroy’s renovations, I insisted on bringing my daughter along, in part because it’s up in the air when I’ll get another chance to appear “so cool” to her. We both had a great day on the slopes, and shared an evening filled with Latin-inspired cuisine, plenty of time exploring the hotel’s expansive grounds, a few new stuffies, and a cameo by the inimitable PJ Masks.
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Viceroy Snowmass debuts massive renovations and additions for 2024-25 ski season
Prior to the current ski season, Viceroy Snowmass underwent significant renovations and expansions. The property’s lobby and lounge areas have been completely reimagined, with café and bar getting a bright facelift and the adjoining lounge an excellent place for morning coffee, daytime remote work, and apres-ski cocktails. This renovation also includes a new check-in experience, a concierge center, and a real estate and retail boutique just beyond the check-in desk. As a travel editor who’s constantly on the road, I like a hotel lobby that doubles as an inspiring coworking area, and the Viceroy’s updated space is incredibly welcoming in the manner that a modern hotel’s should be – it invites you to post up over a drink and a round of emails, without feeling awkward or out of place.
The crown jewel of the hotel’s recent developments, however, is the new Cirque Tower, completed in 2024. This luxury addition to the Viceroy Snowmass complex, which also includes the Pinnacle tower, offers 48 “residences,” primarily consisting of two and three-bedroom whole-ownership condominium hotel properties, along with two exclusive four-bedroom penthouses. My daughter and I stayed in a one-bedroom residence that featured a complete kitchen and – big points here – an actual coffee maker with gourmet coffee from Rock Canyon Coffee (because nothing screams feigned opulence quite like a Keurig). There was a patio overlooking the mountains with access both from the bedroom and living room. I appreciated the workspace in the room and ample seating. My daughter, Olivia, was handed a stuffed horse immediately upon check-in, which barely left her arms throughout our stay. By the end of the evening she’d accumulated two more stuffies, making up for the fact that I’d only packed one for the trip.
Located slope-side on Assay Hill, these residences boast ski-in/ski-out access and are furnished with high-end finishes including light wood flooring, natural stones, decorative porcelain tiles, and custom lighting. Owners of these residences (and single-night guests such as myself) enjoy access to a private pool and spa area, a state-of-the-art gym, ski/snowboard concierge storage, and 24-hour hotel services. Rooms at Viceroy Snowmass run anywhere from $300 to several thousand dollars per night, depending on layout and season.
These residences are perfect for multi-day or weeklong ski trips, family-style or with groups of ski buddies, as most of the trip planning experience can be handled by the hotel’s concierge. Rentals and ski storage are available on-site, and once strapped in it’s easy to ski right down to the Assay Hill lift and ride up it to move over to the Elk Camp Gondola and the rest of the mountain.
Viceroy Snowmass is LEED Gold Certified, recognized for energy efficiency, green design, and low-flow faucets. In addition, the property uses eco-friendly cleaning supplies. Luxury travel will always have an environmental impact, however major players like Viceroy being vocal advocates for sustainable development not only blends with the ethos of Aspen and Snowmass Village but speaks to an increased awareness of the need to do things right wherever possible, including in the upmarket segment.
Apres is available inside or poolside at the Nest Bar & Grill. After my day on the hill I ventured over to pick up my daughter from her ski lesson (more on that below) and the walk into the base village was quick and passed by numerous establishments serving cold beer or warmer options.
Toro at Viceroy Snowmass is refreshingly international
Even if you venture offsite for happy hour, dining onsite at Viceroy at least one evening during a stay is advised. Under the leadership of Executive Chef Richard Sandoval, Viceroy pivoted its magnet dining experience to globally-inspired Latin cuisine largely influenced by the culinary traditions of Colombia, Peru, Mexico, Brazil, Venezuela, and Japan. Toro Snowmass, located in the lobby, is the latest opening of Sandoval’s restaurant group, which operates establishments under the same name in global destinations including Istanbul, Marrakesh, and Belgrade. The Snowmass offering is a beautifully refreshed elevated dining experience with seating arranged to highlight the expansive views of the Rockies extending beyond the hotel grounds. The interior calls to mind the jungles of the Amazon and the peaks of the Andes, a fitting setting for Sandoval’s Latin-rooted dishes. Peruvian cuisine in particular has been significantly influenced by Japanese immigration, creating a unique fusion known as Nikkei cuisine. This culinary blend emerged from the arrival of Japanese immigrants in Peru in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Over time, they incorporated Japanese techniques and ingredients into Peruvian food, leading to a distinctive and internationally recognized culinary style.
The menu at Toro embraces the Nikkei tradition, focusing heavily “suviche” – ceviche and sushi dishes with a wide influence, like the Acevichado Nikkei Roll and Lobster Won Ton Tacos. The dinner menu features South American dishes like the Cusco Chicken, with achiote-marinated chicken breast, or the gamey Toro Bison Burger.
The bison burger was perfectly paired with a mezcal cocktail and a house-made pickle. Photo: Tim Wenger
Toro’s cocktail menu follows suit, featuring more than 90 wines from around the globe, sake, and Latin-inspired cocktails. I paired a mezcal cocktail with a bison burger, perfect after a long day on the slopes. I found it slightly humorous that the drink menu featured a separate section for both zero-proof cocktails and mocktails – I was not previously aware there was a difference between the two, but Toro thoroughly caters to the palette of both the sober and sober-curious.
Snowmass makes it easy for families to travel on their own terms
Photo: Toasted Pictures/Shutterstock
I traveled to Snowmass with my three-year-old daughter, Olivia, and enrolled her in a ski lesson via the Treehouse Adventure Center, located in the Snowmass Village base area. Treehouse serves as a double-duty childcare center and kid lesson facility, complete with indoor playgrounds and ski rentals. Catering to kids from eight weeks to four years old, it offers full-day childcare with engaging playrooms and professional caregivers. The center operates from 8:30 AM to 3:30 PM and provides snacks and lunch, though parents must supply food for infants. For toddlers aged between two-and-a-half years and three, a specialized program includes a one-hour morning ski experience combined with indoor activities. Meanwhile, children aged three to four can participate in full-day ski lessons focused Olivia did a full day, including the magic carpet and a small course that helped her build basic balancing skills on skis.
I signed Olivia up for the first-timer lesson, even though I’d previously taken her out skiing once before on a bunny slope, so that she could continue building foundational skiing skills – without getting upset with dad each time she fell. She loved it, and spent the rest of the evening talking about skiing in a manner that only a three-year-old can muster. The cost for full-day childcare is $194, while full-day ski lessons for children 3 to 4 years old are $244. Prices are subject to change, so it’s best to check with the center directly.
Unique touches at Viceroy Snowmass
Not a bad backdrop. Photo: Tim Wenger
The hotel makes playlists for various aspects of its experience. On the coffee table in my room were a collection of cards that could be scanned to access the Viceroy workout playlist on Spotify. Its website links to a more general travel mix, dubbed “A Constellation of Discovery,” featuring world tunes that I played for my daughter and I in the car on way out of Snowmass in the morning. This playlist also made for good background music while writing this article.
The only thing that caught me by surprise at Viceroy Snowmass was that the walls in my room at Cirque Viceroy weren’t thicker. I could hear the people in the next room over consistently, as well as the hustle and hustle of the valet station six floors below in the morning. Granted, much of that noise was due to the kids in the next room – our two rooms were connected via a shared door and clearly meant for larger families to co-mingle. The larger residences promise a stiller atmosphere. 
