A visit to the esteemed Bourdeaux estate as it celebrates its 300th anniversary

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Château Ducru-Beaucaillou: Heritage Meets Innovation in the Heart of Saint-Julien

A visit to the esteemed Bourdeaux estate as it celebrates its 300th anniversary

Evan Orensten

24 February 2025

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou stands proudly in France’s Saint-Julien appellation of the Médoc region; on a clear day you can see the Gironde estuary from the Chateau’s terrace. We got a first-hand look when we visited the property during its 300^th anniversary, just after the harvest. Many vintages were sampled during the visit, which also included a county fare celebrating local animals, a visit to their new state-of-the-art onsite winery and a masterclass on how Saint-Julien’s unique microclimate makes beautiful Bordeaux wines.

Wine has been made on the land since the 13^th century, and its more recent history began in 1720 when the Bertrand family moved in and shortly thereafter began producing wine. In 1795 Bertrand Ducru, a local wine merchant, purchased and eponymously named the property, adding “beaucaillou,” the elision of “beaux” (pretty) and “cailloux” (pebbles) to become Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou—Ducru’s chateau of pretty pebbles, named after the Gunzian gravel with quartz pebble soil. It’s one of the elements, along with the ocean breeze, that  helps make the soil and vines some of the best in Bourdeaux. With Napoleon’s 1855 official Bordeaux classification as a Deuxième Grand Cru Classé came the foundation for the brand’s renown.

The Borie family became the sixth family in the Chateau’s modern era to own and farm the land with their purchase of the 105 hectare estate in 1941, and today it’s run by Bruno Borie, a dedicated and passionate wine maker who’s equally adept in the kitchen and who has a great eye for modern art and design. Invited to attend one of the Chateau’s 300^th anniversary celebrations, he and the team showed us how a wine is only as good as both its terroir the people who come together to create it.

Ducru-Beaucaillou’s allure lies in its dedication to a winemaking philosophy honoring its storied past and the innovations of the present. Tracey Dobbin MW, Special Advisor for Wines and Markets at the chateau, walked us through the portfolio, the wine making process, showed us the new winery being built, and explained that the estate’s wines “reflect a blend of tradition and innovation, with precise winemaking techniques and careful selection of grapes.” This approach ensures that each bottle encapsulates the unique terroir and the meticulous craftsmanship that defines the estate. Many consider the estate as one of the top terroirs in the Medoc region, and its heritage is something the team is committed to preserving.

At its heart is the Borie family, with Bruno at the helm. As owners of the storied estate they embody a deep connection to the land and its legacy, as well as their own. Bruno emphasizes the estate’s commitment to scientific advancements in viticulture, advocating for modern techniques to combat pests and diseases. This forward-thinking approach is complemented by ongoing experiments with grafting vines to mitigate plant stress and proactive measures to combat challenges like mildew, which is often problematic tin the region when it rains heavily. When this happens, the estate proactively thins out the bunches on the vines to ensure that those that remain have enough room for the air to circulate and keep them dry. Experimentation with grafting vines in the field reduces stress on the plants. The use of nitrogen-capturing weeds is being explored for its potential to enhance soil health and reduce the need for synthetic fertilizers. They also recognize the importance of soil health in enhancing vineyard productivity.

Despite the embrace of modern techniques, there’s a deep understanding of the importance of the vineyard’s heritage, with efforts to maintain its quality for future generations.Tasting and selecting grapes for different tanks underscores the importance of homogeneity in grape selection, ensuring that only the finest fruit contributes to the final blends. Logistical challenges of blending by style are met with precise measurements and rigorous tasting, guaranteeing that each wine embodies the desired character and complexity. From the vineyard to the cellar, every step is carefully orchestrated to ensure the highest standards, with a commitment to continuous improvement and innovation evident in every aspect of the products’s creation.

The estate’s portfolio, features three wines, clearly in a family, with varying proportions of Cabernet Sauvgnon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Ducru-Beaucaillou, La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou, and Le Petit Ducru de Ducru-Beaucaillou (which does not have any Cabernet Franc and may or may not have a small amount of Petit Verdot depending on the year), showcase a dedication to blending traditional methods with cutting-edge innovation, characterized by meticulous winemaking practices and careful (even severe) grape selection. This is where the land, the vines and the people all come together to make an outstanding range of Bordeaux wines. Prices vary by region and vintage, but in the US you can usually find a bottle of Le Petit for around $30, of La Croix for around $60, and Ducru-Beaucaillou for around $250-300.